Lapped by the Arabian Sea, Oman curves along the southeastern tip of Saudi Arabia. The sultanate’s people, history, culture and cookery are closely tied to the ocean–not only in the bountiful fruits of the sea, but in the country’s aquatic trade routes.
North of Zanzibar’s cinnamon plantations and across the sea from the cardamom groves of India and Pakistan’s fields of turmeric, Oman sits at the crossroads of ancient spice routes.
No surprise then that Omani cookery use such an extravagant variety of perfumed, pungent pods, seeds, barks and leaves.
Take this shorbat adas soup adapted from Felicia Campbell’s traditional Omani recipe. While many Middle Eastern bean soups and Southeast Asian dals use two or three spices, this fragrant lentil soup calls for eight.
Along with coriander, cumin, turmeric and black pepper you’ll find the more unexpected sweetness and bite of cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and nutmeg.
If you’re a culinary hoarder like me–see my spice drawer below–you’ll welcome the opportunity to break out some of your lesser-used spices.
The soup also calls for fresh ginger, garlic, large quantities of purple onion and dried limes. Also known as “black limes,” these brined, dehydrated fruits are a signature flavor of Omani and Persian cuisines, giving dishes nuanced notes of acridness, smoke and citrus. You’ll find them in Middle Eastern grocery stores or spice shops.
While this soup’s flavor is complex, preparation is simple. Sopped up with yeasty shepherd’s bread or chapati, Omani Lentil Soup makes a terrific and quick weeknight dinner.
Omani 8-Spice Lentil Soup
2 dried limes
1 tablespoon coconut oil
3 medium red onions, chopped fine
3 cloves garlic, minced
½” piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
3 plum tomatoes, cored and diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
¾ teaspoon whole coriander
¾ teaspoon whole cumin
¼ teaspoon whole cardamom
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
5½ cups water
1 cup red lentils, rinsed well
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for serving
- Scrub the limes, place in a bowl and cover with warm water. Let them soak for a few minutes to soften their skins, then pierce the skins, making several holes in each lime.
- In medium-sized stockpot, heat the coconut oil over a medium-high flame until the air shimmers above the pan. Toss in the chopped onions, stir and fry the onions. Turn the flame down slightly, if needed, and cook the onions until they are soft, about 15 minutes.
- Add the garlic and ginger and continue to fry the mix for a few minutes.
- Add the tomatoes and continue to cook for a 2-3 more minutes.
- In the meantime, grind the whole spices. Place the coriander, cumin and cardamom in a mortar and pestle and grind until they reach a consistency that pleases you. I like a rough grind, rather than a powdery grind. Into the mortar, stir the pre-ground nutmeg, cloves, turmeric, cinnamon and black pepper.
- Sprinkle the spice mixture into the onion and tomato mixture. Add the tomato paste and dried limes. Bring the mixture to a boil, turn down the flame and let it simmer for 3-4 minutes.
- As the mixture cooks, wash the lentils, rinsing them three times or until the rinse water runs clear. Add the lentils, water and salt to the onion/tomato/spice mixture. Turn up the flame, bring the soup to a boil, then turn down the flame, letting the lentils cook at a low simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes until the lentils are soft.
- Spoon half the soup into a food processor and puree. Pour the pureed lentils back into the pot, stir to blend and serve.
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Serves 6